Jo Hyun Jae

2010.07.06

No JHJ sightings this morning, even though the Thai fans were vigilantly waiting in the Baiyoke Sky Hotel.  The word was JHJ had too much to drink last night and had a hangover.  The drinking continued after they returned from MK Restaurant.  Everybody must have been feeling good after the fan meeting, so they got high.  And this morning JHJ could not get up.  The Thai fans were whispering this to us, and at first they made us swear to keep this secret.  But what’s the big deal?  This is normal behaviour for a young man.  Who has not been drunk and suffered from a hangover?  Finally they gave us permission to mention this.  If you’ve always thought that JHJ is too uptight and inhibited, well, this makes him more human, more manly.

JHJ stayed in his room all day until dinner.  They went to a Korean restaurant which has since closed.   His flight was at night — he flew back to Nagoya and onto Seoul, arriving on the early morning of the next day.  Many of his Thai fans were at the airport to see JHJ off — some even in the Restricted Area.  (Nothing is impossible in Thailand, remember?)  T proudly told us she was the first to greet JHJ on his arrival on June 29 and also the last to see him off on July 6, both times shaking his hand.  T, you’re really something!

JHJ’s departure from Bangkok Airport on July 6, 2008

Postscript

I learnt a valuable lesson on star-chasing from the Thai fans on my trip.  They have all obtained JHJ’s autograph and shaken his hand every time they saw him in Bangkok or Pattaya.  But how did they manage? (given JHJ’s handlers’penchant for driving fans off with “No photos! No photos!”)

Take J who is a lady if ever there was one.  She said she just went up to JHJ at the airport restricted area (where she worked), handed him two photos and said: “Please sign.” and he obliged very politely.  Something J said hit a chord: “This may be my only chance to get his autograph, so I have to seize the opportunity.”  Yes, who knows when we can see JHJ again?

(Left) J’s JHJ autographs; (Right) her 3 JHJ T-shirts – yes, she’s got all 3 T-shirts that JHJ wore on his Thai trip (on arrival, at the Baiyoke Sky, and at the jasmine tree site.)  Photos courtesy of J – Thanks!

But it is T who wins hands down for audacity and resourcefulness.  Every time she saw JHJ (and that is every day), she went up to him and extended her hand (which he was of course too polite not to take.)  And she asked for his autograph — just like that.  “But aren’t you put off by his handlers ‘No photos! No photos!’?” I asked.  “No!” she replied without thinking.  “No photograph does not mean no autograph.” Who can beat such logic?

So now we know.  B said: “Next time we see JHJ again, don’t stop me from asking for his autograph.”  You go ahead.  I’m shy and retiring, and JHJ obviously does not like physical contact with strangers.  And I resent being told off by his handlers who do not seem to understand that fans are an actor’s bread and butter.  Of course it is different if I’m young and pretty like the Thai fans.  As it is, this ajuma is content to look at JHJ from a distance.

The Thai fans are a cheerful and fun-loving lot — we laughed our heads off when they’re relating their exploits.  They wear their hearts on their sleeves — they are genuine, sincere, warm, considerate, friendly, and utterly devoted to JHJ.  No wonder JHJ could feel so relaxed in Thailand.  More than one Japanese fan have remarked that JHJ seemed to enjoy himself in Thailand more than in Japan.  Of course in Japan it was all work, whereas in Thailand it was business-cum-pleasure.  The Japanese ladies are more reserved; the Thai fans are spontaneous and spirited.  JHJ is by temperament shy and inhibited, so I think it is a pleasant change for him to let his hair down for a little while.  After all, his Thai trip was a working vacation.

I would like to thank once again all our Thai friends for making our trip an enjoyable and memorable one, especially S, J, K, T and everybody who came to the jasmine tree picnic and to lunch (even the airport!) afterwards.  Seeing you is the next best thing to seeing JHJ in person.  Let us remain united behind JHJ, fighting!  Until the next time we meet…..

(THE END)

(Credit: JHJ photos from Thai fan sites — see names on photos. Thanks!)

2010.07.05

This was the morning of the Green Campaign — the jasmine tree planting ceremony.  It must be so refreshing for JHJ to be doing something outdoors.  The trees were to be planted at a park about half an hour’s drive from the Baiyoke Sky Hotel.  (Please see our Nov.15 post “JHJ’s jasmine tree” under Category: JHJ fan meetings/Trips as JHJ fan”.)  

The highlight of JHJ’s Thailand trip, the fan meeting, was in the afternoon.  The venue was the SF Cinema at Central World.  The following photos show the route that JHJ took to the cinema.

Here are some photos and a video of the fan meeting.

After the successful completion of the fan meeting, JHJ and everybody involved (KTCC and Korean staff) went to a celebration dinner at the MK Restaurant.  MK is a chain restaurant in Bangkok, but this one is different — housed in a renovated old building, very classy, very elegant, as you can see from the following photos.

That’s the table where JHJ and he party sat on Jul.5, 2008

JHJ and his manager Mr. Lee (2nd from left) and the KTCC boss (left) and his wife (right).  We took a photo exactly like this but decided it’s best not to show our ajuma faces. 

This is the restaurant we went to at 4 p.m. to have dinner before the Siam Niramit Show on Nov.12.  MK specialises in hot pot: JHJ had shabu-shabu (beef) but we chose seafood.  According to informed sources, JHJ was very relaxed and relieved the job was done.  He drank a lot and had a hangover the next morning.  Everybody had a good time that night and heartily celebrated the successful completion of JHJ’s business-cum-pleasure trip to Thailand.

(TO BE CONTINUED)

(Credit: Photos and video of Thai fan meeting from Thai fan sites – see names. Thanks! Other photos by wulijohyunjae.)

2010.07.04

In the morning JHJ attended a press conference at Baiyoke Sky Hotel 17/F Rainbow Room.  He was first interviewed by TV3 and then by other media which were there in force, as you can see from the photo below.

S took us around the place, pointing out exactly where and when JHJ did what.  She had a direct line to TV3 which covered JHJ every step of the way, so she could get all the scoops about JHJ functions.  The day we visited (Nov.11) there was some kind of event in preparation, so we could not go into the room and I only managed to take one picture.

JHJ’s Thai fan meeting is different from all the others because it is not pure entertainment.  There are other components as well – social (charity auction) and environmental (tree planting the next day.) 

The charity auction to raise funds for elderly people who live alone was in the afternoon.  The venue was Central World which, you may remember, was burnt down by the Red Shirts in May 2010 but has since been rebuilt and reopened in October.

B was there in 2008 and she and S reminisced about every little detail which made me feel more regret at missing out on JHJ’s Thai fan meeting.  All I could do was take some photos of where he left his footprints.

(Right) Top – auction venue on Nov.11, 2010 and Bottom – on Jul.4, 2008

 Some of the items donated by JHJ for the auction

(Left) JHJ posing with the proud new owners of his personal items above; (Right) One fan was overcome with emotions

S was reliving every minute of the auction.  She made a successful bid for JHJ’s cap and her friend Botun (who donated the jasmine trees for the Green Campaign) paid premium price for his sunglasses – all for a good cause.

The following video of the charity auction is set to the Eagles’ song “Desperado”.  Remember the line: “You better let somebody love you”?

That evening JHJ finally had his first dinner at a Korean restaurant – Gabin – that’s where we had our first meal in Bangkok on this trip (lunch on Nov.11)  It’s an elegant and unpretentious restaurant set back from the main road, and it serves genuine Korean food since its owner is Korean.

(Left) The restaurant logo at the entrance; (Right) the interior

(Left) The private room where JHJ and co. had dinner on Jul.4, 2008; (Right) some of the Korean food they had (actually that’s our lunch on Nov.11, 2010)

S asked the restaurant people about JHJ’s visit but they were new and didn’t know anything.  Next thing the owner came to our table.  Mr. Shin was the General Manager of an international Korean company.  When he retired, he liked it so much in Bangkok that he decided to stay and started his second career as a restauranteur. He spoke excellent English and even putonghua (Mandarin) when he found out we were Chinese.  He told us proudly the Thai princess and the Queen of Bhutan had patronized his restaurant.

He also gave us a piece of paper on which he had written the names of three Korean actors who had been to his restaurant — Kim Lae Won, Song Hye Kyo, and Kim Jung Hoon.  Apparently the Korean Embassy referred a lot of business his way.  He told us at length about his encounter with Song Hye Kyo.  He was standing at the door bidding farewell to some Korean guests one evening when he saw a girl in a jacket and trousers and a baseball cap* (dressed very modestly, he mentioned twice) that looked like SHK.  (* Ed: That’s exactly how SHK is dressed at the beginning of “Sunshine” when she meets JHJ at the metro station.)  When he asked his manager afterwards, the man said: “Yes, that’s SHK all right!.”  The exchange that followed went like this:

“Why didn’t you tell me?”

“But the Korean Embassy said it was TOP SECRET when they made the reservation.”

“TOP SECRET does not mean keeping it secret from me, the owner!”

When I asked Mr. Shin about JHJ’s visit in July 2008, it did not ring a bell at all.  Maybe JHJ’s visit was even more TOP SECRET, so Mr. Shin was not informed.  I’m sure JHJ enjoyed his dinner at Gabin as much as we did.  After all, it beat eating cup noodles in his hotel room, and seeing all that kimchi must have made him so happy.  The KTCC people (one of the sponsors of JHJ’s trip) said JHJ did not much care for western food.  Their driver also told the Thai fans that of all the Korean actors he had chauffeured, JHJ was the only one who did not go out again at night.  So JHJ is conservative in his food and a homebody — he’ll make some lucky Korean girl a good husband someday! 

(TO BE CONTINUED)

(Credit: Photos and videos of 2008 events from Thai media or fan sites – see names. Thanks!  All other photos by wulijohyunjae.)

2008.07.03

JHJ played golf in the morning – at a golf course near the jasmine tree park.  The golf course belonged to the military, so someone must have pulled a few strings.  According to his ever-present Thai fans, JHJ was wearing a yellow golf shirt, blue trousers, and a black cap.  There’s a driving range at the Baiyoke Sky Hotel and JHJ practised there the day before, as reported by his Thai fans.  And don’t forget he could practise putting in his suite too.

JHJ did not show his face in the afternoon.  He was probably taking a rest in his suite.  Maybe he was afraid of being accosted by Thai fans again.  One Thai fan called R13 told us she hid in the Fire Exit of Baiyoke Sky Hotel to wait for JHJ’s return, when she suddenly jumped out and gave him a fright!  But she did manage to get his autograph. 

That evening JHJ attended a famous show (with dinner included.)  Siam Niramit is a world-class performance of Thailand’s arts and cultural heritage.  This must-see spectacular is performed on the gigantic stage now listed in the Guinness World Records, featuring over 150 performers with as many as 500 costumes. On top of this, enhanced special effects with the world’s most advanced technology are used to produce a stimulating, very realistic, and inspiring experience.  It is billed as a “Journey to the Enchanted Kingdom of Thailand” that no one can miss.

So of course we had to do what JHJ had done.  We even bought the most expensive tickets for the so-called Golden Seats (because that’s where JHJ sat.)  We had to eat dinner (or was it tea?) at 4 p.m. to make sure we got to the show on time.  As it turned out, there was no traffic jam and we were too early, so we checked out the shop where JHJ bought some Thai arts and crafts (we were told) and walked around the replica of early Thai villages.

(Left) The entrance; (Right) the shop

(Left) The grounds where the pre-show of Thai dance was held; (Right) the “orchestra”

(Left) A Thai village; (Right) B making friends with a member of the show 

The show was impressive, especially the sets and costumes, but I was very tired at the end of our second day (Nov.12), after the day trip to Pattaya.  I felt like sneaking out and smoking a cigarette or two (figuratively), which was what JHJ must have done (just guessing.)  No confirmation because he managed to lose his “tails”!

(TO BE CONTINUED)

(Credit: 1st photo from Sky; Siam Niramit photos from their website.  Thanks!  The rest by wulijohyunjae.)

JHJ outside his Bangkok hotel room and in the lobby

2010.07.02

JHJ returned to Bangkok from Pattaya and checked in at the Baiyoke Sky Hotel located at the heart of Bangkok’s city centre.  It is the tallest tower in Bangkok, rising 88 floors above the city skyline.  JHJ’s room is on the 74/F – room at the top!  The most spacious and luxurious rooms are in the Space Zone on floors 64 – 74.  JHJ can enjoy panoramic views of the city looking out from the floor-to-ceiling windows in his suite.

By this time you should not be surprised to hear that JHJ’s enterprising Thai fans (8 of them) spent a night in his room at the Baiyoke Sky in August 2009.  Don’t ask me how they discovered the room number or how they managed to secure that particular room.  They say the suite is very BIG, with a bedroom and a sitting room, and JHJ can even play miniature golf in his room!  Here are some of the pictures they took.

(Left) The door of JHJ’s room; (Right) JHJ can practise his putting in his room!

Who’s that sleeping in JHJ’s bed?

JHJ spent 4 nights 5 days in the Baiyoke Sky Hotel.  All through his stay here, S arranged for a flower garland (jasmine) to be placed on his bed every evening.  So beautiful and fragrant!  Such tender loving care!  I’m sure JHJ was touched.

That evening JHJ had dinner on the 76/F – the international seafood buffet restaurant.  So of course we had to try that out too on our first evening in Bangkok (Nov.11).  Before dinner, S took us to the Observation Deck on the 77/F where we admired the panoramic night view of Bangkok as the deck revolved (yes, it moved!)  Bangkok by night is really quite spectacular.  It is ironic that all the colourful lights come from gridlock on the roads (for which Bangkok is notorious.)

This is what JHJ sees when he looks out of the window of his room in the Space Zone

K and J joined us for dinner.  I was so happy to see them because I wasn’t expecting to.  They showed us where JHJ and his party sat that evening two years ago, even his seat — two tables behind ours.  The seafood buffet restaurant is a popular eatery and is crowded every day.

I teased S, K, and J: “Did you sidle up to JHJ when he went out to get his food?”  But they said he never left the table, so he must have been served by someone in his group.  S demonstrated how JHJ sat with his head turned sideways with a faraway look in his eyes.  (She could make a terrific actress!)  It immediately reminded me of the way he kept staring out of the airplane window on the Osaka to Tokyo flight on the night of Aug.21.  S went on to demonstrate how JHJ bowed his head low to eat — with so many pairs of eyes staring, I would have done the same!  I bet the Thai fans didn’t get much to eat that evening, since they’re so busy keeping tab on every little move of JHJ.

(Left) That’s JHJ’s table on 2008.07.02 (except it was placed parallel to the window); (Right) S made us sit exactly where JHJ sat to take this photo. (See below)

There was a quartet singing that evening, and S requested them to serenade JHJ with the song “Only You” — which made him smile in appreciation (which must have made all the Thai fans there swoon in ecstasy.)  So that was JHJ’s first taste of Bangkok and Thai hospitality. 

 Scenes in restaurant on 2008.07.02

(TO BE CONTINUED)

(Credit: JHJ photos and Baiyoke Sky in-room photos from johyunjaeThailand; flower garland photos and last photo of restaurant scenes from Sky; Baiyoke Sky photos from their website. Many thanks!  Other photos by wulijohyunjae.)

2010.06.30

Today began JHJ’s R & R (rest and recreation) in Pattaya.  This is a well-earned vacation for him, after the Japan fan meetings in Osaka, Tokyo, and Nagoya.

JHJ played golf in the morning.  Which golf course?  “Top secret” again.

Now the golf course is the one place JHJ fans cannot follow him.  That is why I’ve always felt those scenes in “3 Dads/1 Mom” in which Han Soo-Hyun goes on the green to beg for his client’s forgiveness are so ridiculous, especially that scene in which he retrieves the golf ball that has fallen into the water.  Han Soo-Hyun AKA JHJ is practising his swing in the photo above, and he is pretty good.  But if JHJ fans could be JHJ’s caddy for a day, I’m sure they would!  I know I would!

S’s source TV3 told her JHJ went to see the world-famous Alcazar Cabaret in Pattaya, but we’re not sure whether it was June 30 or July 1.  This highly entertaining show featuring female impersonators has been running for 20 years.  Everybody who has seen it says the “female” performers look prettier and sexier than real women.  This should be an interesting experience for JHJ, an eye-opener at least.

After leaving the Dusit Thani, we went to the Alcazar Cabaret theatre.  No show in the daytime, so we checked out the photos of the performers on display.  They really look amazingly lovely, even to a woman.

Then we went to lunch at a seafood restaurant and had JHJ’s favourite Thai food — tom yum goong soup and fried crabs with curry.  JHJ had more than one meal at a Thai restaurant, although he probably preferred Korean food.  According to the KTCC people, JHJ did not much care for western cuisine.  In fact, he did not eat much of anything that they sent to his room.

2010.07.01

What did JHJ do on this day?  “Top secret” again?  T was telling us all of the above most animatedly.  She and her friend P followed JHJ to Pattaya and saw him everyday.  Now P is not a JHJ fan, but only serves as T’s driver and photographer/videographer.  They are inseparable, so this “friend of a fan” is present on all occasions.  In spite of her disclaimer, I suspect she is really a JHJ fan (without knowing it.)

T demonstrated how she greeted JHJ everyday — “Good morning”, “Good afternoon”, and “Good evening”.  She jumped in front of him and grabbed his hand.  I joked with her: “No wonder JHJ stays in his room.  He is afraid of bumping into you.”

When we asked T what JHJ did on the third day, she said: “I don’t know.  I had to go back to Bangkok — no more money!” and we all laughed.  [Footnote: Two weeks later when T saw JHJ at the Korea fan meeting in Seoul, he said: "Ah!" (obviously recognizing her) and he said THANKS in Thai to P.]

So JHJ probably rested on this day.  The Thai fans might not know what he did on July 1, but they did know he did not play golf again.

There are no photos of JHJ in Pattaya, so here is HSH dressed for the part.

(TO BE CONTINUED)

(Credit: Alcazar photos from the internet; JHJ photos from KBS2.  Thanks!)

When Jo Hyun-Jae went to Thailand for his fan meeting in Bangkok in June/July 2008, I could not go because a very close relative chose that time to get married.  I had to attend her wedding in the U.S.A., and I have always felt a tinge of regret at missing the one JHJ fan meeting that is different from all the others, the one where he was so carefree and relaxed.

 JHJ at Bangkok Airport (accompanied by his manager Mr. Lee)

Video shows JHJ arriving in Bangkok on June 29, 2008.

So when there is no JHJ news and everyone is waiting with bated breath for the announcement of his new drama, I asked B if she would like to go to Bangkok with me because I wanted to see JHJ’s jasmine tree.  If I can’t see JHJ on the screen, at least I can go see his tree.

A big THANK YOU to our friend and host Sky (a diehard JHJ fan) for making all arrangements for our three days in Bangkok.  I thought we were just going to see JHJ’s jasmine tree, but we did a lot more than that.  And, best of all, I got to see other Thai fans that I first met in Korea and Japan in 2008 and again earlier this year, especially K, J, and T.  It was like a gathering of old friends who came together because of JHJ.  They made our short stay most memorable and enjoyable.

It was amazing to hear them recount their encounters with JHJ in 2008.  Everything was just like yesterday to them.  They remembered every little detail!  Collectively they have given me a comprehensive picture of JHJ’s visit to Thailand in 2008 (which I will share with you — complete with juicy details!)

The following day-to-day account of JHJ’s visit to Thailand (June 29 – July 6, 2008) is reconstructed from eye-witness accounts.  I used to think the Japanese fans are ingenious at discovering JHJ’s drama locations, but now I know the Thai fans are even more amazing — they managed to track JHJ all the way (just short of stalking!) 

2008.06.29

After JHJ finished his Nagoya dinner show on June 27, 2008, he flew to Bangkok on June 29.  Upon landing, he and his entourage did not stop over in Bangkok but went by van to the beach resort city of Pattaya.  During the 2-hour drive, he chain-smoked all the way (according to the KTCC rep who accompanied him.)   (Ed: JHJ quit smoking in the army.  Let’s hope he hasn’t resumed the habit.)

Red car in photo on right was the exact spot where JHJ’s van was parked on June 29.

(Left) The entrance; (Right) The lobby

The way to the guest rooms

JHJ stayed at the Dusit Thani in Pattaya, a top-class resort hotel.  We went to the hotel on our second day in Bangkok (Nov.12) and toured around.  We even managed to see JHJ’s room!  Well, not exactly his room which was occupied, but an identical one on the executive floor (Dusit Club).  One of my discoveries on this trip is — nothing is impossible in Thailand!  JHJ’s Thai fans move heaven and earth to be close to their idol.

After JHJ stayed at the Dusit Thani Pattaya from June 29 – July 2, 2008, 11 of his Thai fans made a “pilgrimage” there in August 2009 and stayed in the same room!  J was one of them, so this time, as an old guest, she took us straight to the Dusit Club.  There she and S talked to the Dusit Club manager, and next thing we knew, we were led to a room identical to JHJ’s where the following photos were taken.

I asked S and J afterwards what they said to convince the lady to let us into the hotel room, and they said they told the truth.  They showed her JHJ’s photo but she said she could not disclose anything: “Top secret.”  But from the way she smiled, she obviously recognized him.  Who could forget JHJ?

As soon as I entered the room, I snapped everything in sight.  It’s a spacious room with two queen-sized beds (JHJ slept on the one nearer the window.  How do the Thai fans know?  They must have bribed the hotel maid!)  The most attractive feature is the big balcony with unobstructed sea view.  The Dusit Thani’s slogan is: “Using the gifts of heaven to create heaven on earth.”  Spending a few days here must have made JHJ feel like in heaven.

The view from the balcony - Left: from JHJ’s room  (Photo provided by J – Many thanks!)

The most stunning feature in this private balcony is the open shower!  We speculated whether JHJ used it and concluded he could not resist.  The balcony faces the sea, so no one can see you in your birthday suit taking a shower.  But JHJ being JHJ, he probably showered at night.

You can see I covered the bathroom (huge!) as well.  It’s a long walk to the toilet at the back (in a recess.)  I even took a photo of the toilet but refrained from posting it here so as not to offend any sensibilities.  I felt like the paparazzi, and if this had been JHJ’s room, I might even go through the trash!

The way to the beach

That’s S writing JHJ’s initials on the sand.  She could barely finish the second J because the tides were fast coming in.

The next day at the jasmine tree park, K told us JHJ spent a lot of time in his room and he ate Korean cup noodles, according to the hotel maid.  He smoked and talked to his manager (on another floor) on the phone.  This maid must have been instructed to linger and take in as much as possible.  (Just kidding!)

JHJ arrived at Pattaya around 8 p.m. and had his first Thai meal — seafood dinner of tom yum goong (shrimps hot and sour soup) and fried crabs with curry.  He had no idea that two little “tails” called T and P were behind him every step of the way.  I’ll tell you all about their exploits tomorrow.

And now (drum roll…..) for the grand finale to today’s post — precious pictures of JHJ’s hotel room (the REAL one) taken by J.  Many thanks!

(TO BE CONTINUED)

(Credit: Video and 1st 2 photos by www.johyunjaeThailand.com  - Many thanks!  All photos of hotel, except last two, by wulijohyunjae.)

I went on assignment from November 11 to 13.  Where did I go?  Bangkok, Thailand.  What did I do?  I visited JHJ’s jasmine tree!

You may remember JHJ planted a jasmine tree (Green Campaign) on July 5, 2008 in between his fan meeting and other functions in Thailand.

The photos below (from our friend and host Sky) will remind you of the event.

This was what the tree looked like before it was planted on July 5, 2008.

And this is what the tree looks like today (on November 13, 2010.)

JHJ’s jasmine tree is very healthy and strong and looks as handsome as its “planter”, and it is the ONLY tree (out of the dozens there) that has a flower and two buds.

 JHJ’s jasmine is “mali-sorn’ (Grand Duke of Tuscany jasmine — “mali” means jasmine).  Thai fans call JHJ “Prince Jasmine”.

JHJ’s jasmine tree and others are located in a park, less than an hour’s drive from our hotel.  The following photos show the park entrance, the route to the trees, and the cluster of trees in that section.

In case you think the soil in that area of the park is particularly fertile, photo on left is the tree that Samsung Insurance’s manager (sponsor of event) planted (with a little help from JHJ) — right next to JHJ’s.  It’s actually a different kind of jasmine — mali-chat.

That’s JHJ’s T-shirt standing next to his tree in photo on right.  One lucky Thai fan managed to buy this identical T-shirt (and 2 others!) in Seoul.

Photos below show the Thai fans who got together on that day for a picnic in the park with JHJ’s tree (they brought so much food!)  They visit JHJ’s tree every month — to make sure it’s thriving.  So much TLC!

What’s that on the right?  B watering her tree – BIG and fat! (compare with JHJ’s tall and slim.)  She’ll probably kill me!  So if there is no post tomorrow, you’ll know why.  But a picture speaks 1000 words.

Clarification: Sky has just informed me that the jasmine trees are supplied by botun of www.johyunjaeinvitation.net, so even though we call it JHJ’s jasmine tree, it is rightfully hers, as are all the other trees.  We thank botun for her generosity which has contributed to a worthy cause and given JHJ fans so much pleasure.

(Credit: Photos 1,2, & 4 from Sky, 3 from JHJThailand.  Sky has also given us a video, which we’ll post after editing.  Many thanks!  All other photos by wulijohyunjae.)

Last thing on our schedule of the day was the Buyeo National Museum.  The Buyeo National Museum has 10,000 relics that were discovered from various historic sites.  There is a historic exhibit of Baekje relics (what we’re primarily interested in — all photos below are from this exhibit – from Row 2), a prehistoric exhibit centering on the Bronze Age, Buddhism and art exhibit, and outdoor exhibit area.

The centre-piece of the Buyeo National Museum is of course the Gilt Bronze Incense-Burner of Baekje which plays such a prominent part in “Seo Dong Yo”.

This gilt bronze incense-burner, unearthed on a temple site of Buyeo in December 1993, is a masterpiece 64 cm in height , 19 cm in girth, and 11.8 kg in weight, consisting of the base, body, lid, and knob.  In the base part, a dragon raises its head, supporting the main body.  The main body of the incense-burner closely resembles a blossoming lotus flower.  On the lateral surface 26 different animals are depicted.

The gilt bronze incense-burner from two different angles

On the lid there is scenery of 23 mountains shaping 4 to 5 layers of deep-mountain ranges.  5 musicians with various instruments and 16 other characters are also illustrated.  39 animals including the Chinese phoenix, dragon, tiger, and deer are depicted.  6 different trees, 12 boulders, trails, creeks, waterfalls, lakes, and other land features compose the changing scenery.  On top of the lid, a separate Chinese phoenix is mounted, standing up with its wings folded and tail raised.  Five holes are drilled on the lid to naturally ventilate the incense flow.

This cultural treasure shows the mental world of Baekje people comprising of Buddhism, Taoism, principles of Yin and Yang, etc.  This beautiful incense-burner testifies to the artistic perfection and technological achievement of the period.

This is an 11-time enlarged model of 8.3m in height, reproduced in Oct.2002, which stands on the grounds of the museum.  But on the day of our visit, it was travelling for an exhibition elsewhere.

This concludes our account of our tour of Buyeo.  We had a wonderful time, thanks to EVER!  Seeing some of the locations of the drama made us appreciate “Seo Dong Yo” and Jo Hyun-Jae all the more.  We were resolved to watch SDY again (for the Nth time) when we got home.

(THE END)

(Credit: Description of incense-burner and last photo from Official Korea Tourism Guide Site – “Into the Kingdom of Baekje – Travelling Buyeo”.  Thanks!) 

Buyeo’s “Seo Dong Yo” film set also consists of the Baekje Palace (1st row), Silla Palace, Taehaksa (Baekje’s laboratory – 2nd row), and Haneulchae (the village of the scientific scholars.)  See how many of these buildings you recognize from the drama.

Yes, that’s a cardboard life-size Princess Seonhwa in that photo above (2nd last row.)   It’s a pity some of the buildings are under renovation (like the Silla Palace), so they’re not shown here.  Flags in photo (last row) say “Baekje” (fore) and “Silla” (back).

When I told my husband I went to the film set of SDY, the first thing he said was: “So, is it 30 paces from the palace to the pier?  And are the walls really paper-thin?”  He watched SDY last year of his own volition. (Well, I might have done a little hard sell!)  His remarks afterwards: “Baekje Palace has the best location – it’s within walking distance of everywhere.” and ”Now I know ‘The walls have ears’ originated in ancient Korea – every time a secret is told, someone outside overhears it.”  He really has a wry sense of humour.  But he actually enjoyed the drama (at least he watched it to the very end), and I think he became a Lee Bo-Young fan.

(TO BE CONTINUED)